Tailored For Freedom

The Artistic Dress in 1900 in Fashion, Art, and Society

Edited by Magdalena Holzhey and Ina Ewers-Schultz

Tailored For Freedom

Edited by Magdalena Holzhey and Ina Ewers-Schultz

Distributed for Hirmer Publishers

288 pages | 400 color plates | 9 1/2 x 11 | © 2019
Cloth $55.00 ISBN: 9783777431123 Published February 2019 For sale in Canada, Mexico, and the USA only
Though often seen today as a mere expression of individuality, fashion around 1900 became synonymous with the physical and social emancipation of women. Reform movements at the turn of the century strove to achieve a unity of art and life, inspiring artists to experiment with how the design of women’s dresses could do more than decorate, cover, and constrict. The clothing designs of famous artists like Heinrich Vogeler, Henry van de Velde, Josef Hoffmann, and Sonia Delaunay revealed both a new aesthetic and a new attitude to the role of women. Their loose forms, flowing fabrics, bold colors, and geometric and floral patterns liberated wearers from the social convention of decades past.

Tailored for Freedom sheds light on new interdisciplinary perspectives in the period of change at the beginning of the twentieth century—from the German Reform Movement and the Wiener Werkstätte to the English Arts and Crafts Movement and the development of Haute Couture in Paris. The first comprehensive presentation of the interaction between art, fashion, photography, dance, and advertising in the Reform Movement, this lavishly illustrated volume will delight readers with the beauty of these clothes and the stories of women’s liberation behind them.
 
Contents
Foreword

Introduction


The Dress as a Work of Art
The Dress as a Work of Art, Beauty as a Weapon, and the Concept of the Gesamtkunstwerk: On a New Understanding of Art around 1900
Closely Tied: The Krefeld Museum Director Friedrich Deneken and His European Network
"The Fairies Have Strewn Flowers along the Way": The Textile Designer and Gesamtkunstler Henry van de Velde and His Weimar Circle
"The Highest Intelligence in the Freest Body!" Modern Dance as a Symbiosis of Body and Costume

New Shapes and Decors
Making an Appearance: The Fashion Frenzy and "New Style" in Women's Clothing around 1900
"The Artistic Elevation of Women's Dress": Krefeld 1900 and Its Consequences
"A Miracle How Preciously the People Here Understand Their Work in Silk": Johan Thorn Prikker as a Textile Artist: From Batik to Krefeld Artists' Silk
Kimono & Co.: The Influence of Japan as Well as Historical and Regional Garments on Fashion around 1900

Ambivalent Gender Roles
"Since Not All Women, Even if They Have Taste, Are Able to Invent Suitable Ornaments": Women and Their Clothes between Decoration and Emancipation
"The Essential Thing Is the Individual Adaptation to the Wearer": Anna Muthesius's Das Eigenkleid der Frau
"Antineutral Clothing for Men": The Artistic Reform of Men's Wear
The Body under the Clothes: Nude Photography of Women in the Context of Clothing Reform

Staging and Communication
Posing for a New World: Artistic Dresses and How They Were Communicated
The Weiner Werkstatte and the Fashion Reform
"The Art of Clothing Oneself Must Be Popularized": The Artistic Reform Dress as an Ideal, an Aesthetic, and Consumer Culture
The Omega Workshops: Painting in Space

Looking Back and Ahead
"Deeds not Words": On the Political Iconography of Women's Dress
Skirt and Rib: Bodies in the Gaze

Appendix
Notes
Catalogue of the Works Exhibited
Acknowledgments 
Colophon
Image Credits
Review Quotes
The Art Libraries Society of North America
"This comprehensive book is academic in tone, but accessible and readable, and includes extensive scholarly endnotes. The book contains lovely, high-quality reproductions of dresses, textiles, fine art, and photographs from this period."
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