Japan’s Cuisines
Food, Place and Identity
Distributed for Reaktion Books
304 pages
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30 halftones
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5 1/2 x 8 1/2
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© 2016
- Contents
- Review Quotes
Table of Contents

Contents
NOTE ON TRANSLATION
Introduction
1 What is Traditional Japanese Food?
2 Tea Cuisine and the Origins of Japanese Cuisine
3 Rice and its Identities
4 The Making of the Modern Boxed Lunch
5 National People’s Cuisine
6 When Local Food Became Local Cuisine
7 Local Food Cultures in Saga, Kōchi and Hida
Conclusion
REFERENCES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PHOTO ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INDEX
Introduction
1 What is Traditional Japanese Food?
2 Tea Cuisine and the Origins of Japanese Cuisine
3 Rice and its Identities
4 The Making of the Modern Boxed Lunch
5 National People’s Cuisine
6 When Local Food Became Local Cuisine
7 Local Food Cultures in Saga, Kōchi and Hida
Conclusion
REFERENCES
BIBLIOGRAPHY
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
PHOTO ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
INDEX
Review Quotes
Times Literary Supplement
“In Japan’s Cuisines, Rath argues that, by focusing on ceremonial and festival foods, and the typical white-rice dinners of today’s middle class and the past’s elite, Japanese culinary history is inaccurately portrayed. The food of the rural and lower classes is unfairly omitted.”
Huffington Post
“Offers a well-informed and lucid critique of the government-led addition of the ‘traditional dietary cultures of the Japanese (washoku)’ to the UNESCO list.”
Choice
“Rath’s Japan’s Cuisines is an examination of the ideology of a nation’s food and it ties to cultural identity. Rath does an exceptional job exposing the realities of contemporary Japanese foodways versus national Japanese cuisine, and the conceptual evolution of what constitutes Japanese food. This is a revelatory book if sushi and tea ceremony foods are the definition of Japanese food for the reader. . . . This is an enlightening and engaging read that will alter widely held ideas of Japanese food. Highly recommended.”
Asian Affairs
"Rath challenges commonly held views of traditional Japanese cuisine, advocating an expanded definition that represents the true complexity of the country’s food. . . . The author manages to draw links between past and present that enliven the text. . . . Rath’s book is engaging and thoroughly researched. . . . This volume makes a worthy contribution to our understanding of Japanese society, the diversity of its cuisines, and how the development of both are unavoidably intertwined."
New Books Asia
"Japan’s Cuisines is a fascinating look at the ideological underpinnings of washoku in its various historical and contemporary forms. Rath draws on history, folklore, and literature to emphasize his arguments. . . . He has written a much needed book on Japan’s food culture. . . . Japan’s Cuisines is comprehensive, well written, and informative."
Jordan Sand, Georgetown University
"This wise and richly documented study provides an important corrective to the many misconceptions about Japanese food culture. Rath moves skillfully between high cuisine and the great diversity of local foodways to reveal how class cultures, national institutions, and economic change have shaped what Japanese eat and what most people think of as typical Japanese cuisine."
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