The Culinarians
Lives and Careers from the First Age of American Fine Dining
- Contents
- Review Quotes
- Awards
Table of Contents
Contents
A Note to the Reader
Introduction
The First Era, 1790 to 1835: The Restaurant, the Coffeehouse, and the Oyster Cellar
“Julien” (Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat)
Othello Pollard
Stephen Simonet
Ann Poppleton
James Prosser
William Sykes
Frederic Rouillard
Joseph Boulanger
Eliza Leslie
William Niblo
William Walker
Thomas Downing
Alexander “Sandy” Welsh
John Weller
Joseph Letourno
Edward Windust and Sarah E. Windust
Eliza Seymour Lee
Isaiah Le Count
John Wright
Harvey D. Parker
Lucretia Bourquin
Robert Manners
Lorenzo Delmonico
Victor LeFort
Lucien Boudro
The Second Era, 1835 to 1865: The Great Hotel, the Saloon, and the Black Caterer
Louis Galabran
Edward Marchand
Miguel Brisolara
Nat Fuller
Charles Gautier
Victor Martin
Antoine Alciatore
John Galpin
Cary B. Moon
Joshua B. Smith
Sam Ward
Baptiste Moreau
Balthazar Roth
James Augustin
Orra A. Taft
Walter H. Van Rensselaer
David Canter
James Wood Parkinson
Antonio Sivori
James P. M. Stetson
Charles Ignatius Pfaff
Henry Jakes II
Frozine Madrid
François-Winceslas Pelletier
Louis Schultz
Pierre Trapet
James Wormley
Pierre Blot
John Dabney
August Louis Sieghortner
Gustave Feraud
James H. W. Huckins
William Vollmer
Augustin François Anezin
George M. Ardoene
Emanuel Pierre Bret
Fritz Huppenbauer
John Burroughs Drake
Jean-Georges Torrilhon
John A. Gray Sr.
John Ludin
George Speck Crum
Louisa Drouilhat
John Gaston
Joseph Baptiste Peyroux
Thomas R. Tully
Anthony Astredo
George T. Downing
Emile Gerot
Mohican Hill
Lew Boman
The Third Era, 1865 to 1885: The French Hegemony and the Nationalist Reaction
Jules Arthur Harder
Elizabeth Kettenring Bégué
Francesco Martinelli
John Michels
Lexius Henson
George E. Johnston
Dominico Paretti
Felix J. Déliée
Edward Schelcher
Nunzio Finelli
Jessup Whitehead
Fred Harvey
Eugene Laperruque
Nellie Murray
Wong Ah Cheok
Anthony Edward Faust
Sophie Dorn Flêche (Madame Eugène)
Henri Mouquin
Charles Ranhofer
Francis J. Kinzler
Gustave “Gus” Jaubert
Eugene Mehl
John W. Conway
Victor Dol
Magdalena “Lena” Frey Fabacher
George W. Harvey
Emeline Jones
Frederic Mergenthaler
Agnes Moody
Joseph Seyl
Auguste Valadon
Fernand Fere
Maria Parloa
The Gilded Age, 1885 to 1919: Fame and the Master Chef
Charles E. Rector
Edward Charbulak
Louis Charles Fleury Lallouette
Louise Volkmann
Frank Xavier Mivelaz and Louis L. Mivelaz
Gustav Nouvel
Benjamin Franklin Sims
William G. Barron
Joseph Pio Campazzi
“Harry” Lee King
Jeanne Marie Buisson Esparbe
Alessandro Filippini
Louis F. Mazzetti
Sarah Tyson Rorer
Jules Chatain
Emil Hederer
Urban Sobra
Adrien Tenu
Valere Braquehais
Jean Roth
Charles Henry Smiley
Frederick Compagnon
Jose Gestal
Jules Weber
Paul Gilardoni
Augustino G. Ferera
Louis Sherry
Jean Galatoire
August Lüchow
Rufus Estes
Prosper Grevillot
Pierre Borel
Xenophon Kuzmier
François Sartre
Betty Lyles Wilson
Charles Crist Delmonico
J. Valentine Seitz
Leon Surdez
Fernand Alciatore Sr.
Gustave F. M. Beraud
Joseph Coppa
Jules Louis Alciatore
Mary Anastasia Wilson
Herman J. Berghaus
Louis C. Billote
Adrian Delvaux
Oscar Tschirky
John Young
Emile Bailly
Eugene Habisreutinger
Jose Sanroman
Henry C. Dousseau
Pierre Buisson
Henri D. Fouilloux
Walter George
Jacques Lescarboura
Lee Chit
Emile Burgermeister
Der Doo
Victor Hirtzler
Louis Calixte Lalanne
Jules Dauviller
Emil C. Altorfer
Edouard Panchard
Louis Paquet
Louis Diat
Indexes
Culinarians
Women
Ethnicities
Restaurants
Menus
Recipes
Introduction
The First Era, 1790 to 1835: The Restaurant, the Coffeehouse, and the Oyster Cellar
“Julien” (Jean Baptiste Gilbert Payplat)
Othello Pollard
Stephen Simonet
Ann Poppleton
James Prosser
William Sykes
Frederic Rouillard
Joseph Boulanger
Eliza Leslie
William Niblo
William Walker
Thomas Downing
Alexander “Sandy” Welsh
John Weller
Joseph Letourno
Edward Windust and Sarah E. Windust
Eliza Seymour Lee
Isaiah Le Count
John Wright
Harvey D. Parker
Lucretia Bourquin
Robert Manners
Lorenzo Delmonico
Victor LeFort
Lucien Boudro
The Second Era, 1835 to 1865: The Great Hotel, the Saloon, and the Black Caterer
Louis Galabran
Edward Marchand
Miguel Brisolara
Nat Fuller
Charles Gautier
Victor Martin
Antoine Alciatore
John Galpin
Cary B. Moon
Joshua B. Smith
Sam Ward
Baptiste Moreau
Balthazar Roth
James Augustin
Orra A. Taft
Walter H. Van Rensselaer
David Canter
James Wood Parkinson
Antonio Sivori
James P. M. Stetson
Charles Ignatius Pfaff
Henry Jakes II
Frozine Madrid
François-Winceslas Pelletier
Louis Schultz
Pierre Trapet
James Wormley
Pierre Blot
John Dabney
August Louis Sieghortner
Gustave Feraud
James H. W. Huckins
William Vollmer
Augustin François Anezin
George M. Ardoene
Emanuel Pierre Bret
Fritz Huppenbauer
John Burroughs Drake
Jean-Georges Torrilhon
John A. Gray Sr.
John Ludin
George Speck Crum
Louisa Drouilhat
John Gaston
Joseph Baptiste Peyroux
Thomas R. Tully
Anthony Astredo
George T. Downing
Emile Gerot
Mohican Hill
Lew Boman
The Third Era, 1865 to 1885: The French Hegemony and the Nationalist Reaction
Jules Arthur Harder
Elizabeth Kettenring Bégué
Francesco Martinelli
John Michels
Lexius Henson
George E. Johnston
Dominico Paretti
Felix J. Déliée
Edward Schelcher
Nunzio Finelli
Jessup Whitehead
Fred Harvey
Eugene Laperruque
Nellie Murray
Wong Ah Cheok
Anthony Edward Faust
Sophie Dorn Flêche (Madame Eugène)
Henri Mouquin
Charles Ranhofer
Francis J. Kinzler
Gustave “Gus” Jaubert
Eugene Mehl
John W. Conway
Victor Dol
Magdalena “Lena” Frey Fabacher
George W. Harvey
Emeline Jones
Frederic Mergenthaler
Agnes Moody
Joseph Seyl
Auguste Valadon
Fernand Fere
Maria Parloa
The Gilded Age, 1885 to 1919: Fame and the Master Chef
Charles E. Rector
Edward Charbulak
Louis Charles Fleury Lallouette
Louise Volkmann
Frank Xavier Mivelaz and Louis L. Mivelaz
Gustav Nouvel
Benjamin Franklin Sims
William G. Barron
Joseph Pio Campazzi
“Harry” Lee King
Jeanne Marie Buisson Esparbe
Alessandro Filippini
Louis F. Mazzetti
Sarah Tyson Rorer
Jules Chatain
Emil Hederer
Urban Sobra
Adrien Tenu
Valere Braquehais
Jean Roth
Charles Henry Smiley
Frederick Compagnon
Jose Gestal
Jules Weber
Paul Gilardoni
Augustino G. Ferera
Louis Sherry
Jean Galatoire
August Lüchow
Rufus Estes
Prosper Grevillot
Pierre Borel
Xenophon Kuzmier
François Sartre
Betty Lyles Wilson
Charles Crist Delmonico
J. Valentine Seitz
Leon Surdez
Fernand Alciatore Sr.
Gustave F. M. Beraud
Joseph Coppa
Jules Louis Alciatore
Mary Anastasia Wilson
Herman J. Berghaus
Louis C. Billote
Adrian Delvaux
Oscar Tschirky
John Young
Emile Bailly
Eugene Habisreutinger
Jose Sanroman
Henry C. Dousseau
Pierre Buisson
Henri D. Fouilloux
Walter George
Jacques Lescarboura
Lee Chit
Emile Burgermeister
Der Doo
Victor Hirtzler
Louis Calixte Lalanne
Jules Dauviller
Emil C. Altorfer
Edouard Panchard
Louis Paquet
Louis Diat
Indexes
Culinarians
Women
Ethnicities
Restaurants
Menus
Recipes
Review Quotes
Andrew F. Smith, editor-in-chief, Oxford Encyclopedia of American Food and Drink
“The Culinarians is well researched, highly original, and well written. It is a tremendous resource for general readers and a must-read for those interested in American food history. And it’s an enjoyable read!”
Marcie Cohen Ferris, author of The Edible South: The Power of Food and the Making of an American Region
“Once again, Shields adds another critical volume to the American cannon of food scholarship with this first ever history of the nation’s foundational ‘culinarians’—the chefs, caterers, and restauranteurs who made cooking an art long before ‘celebrity’ and ‘chef’ became a phrase in popular culture. This compelling selection of exhaustively researched biographical profiles reveals a multi-layered American cuisine grounded in labor, economic smarts, creativity, and skill that speaks of a nation inextricably shaped by race, class, gender, ethnicity, and region.”
Dan Barber, chef and co-owner of Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and author of The Third Plate
"The Culinarians is more than a collection of biographies. It is a celebration of lost voices--cooks, creators, and visionaries who paved the way for the food we eat today. With this book, Shields pulls back the curtain of modern cuisine in America to reveal a story we forgot existed."
Culinary Institute of America: Association for the Study of Food and Society Book Award
Finalist
The James Beard Foundation: James Beard Book Awards
Finalist
For more information, or to order this book, please visit https://www.press.uchicago.edu
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